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The physical space inside the Ultimaker S5 that can be used for single or dual extrusion 3D printing. This is the process of depositing layers of filament, one on top of the other, to build up shapes and models.
It is a form of additive manufacturing technology and the process used by all Ultimaker 3D printers. Fused filament fabrication FFF. The filament diameter that achieves optimal results on Ultimaker 3D printers. The net weight of the 3D printer. The peak power output that the printer can reach — usually when the heated bed and hot ends are heating up. A micron is the measurement used to define the thickness of a 3D printed layer.
Thinner layers are used for high-detail prints, thicker layers are great for fast prototypes. The more accurate the stepper motors within the printer, the greater degree of accuracy and finer resolution can be achieved with each print. Flip the ergonomic locking lever to easily insert or remove your 3D printing materials.
The net weight of the 3D printer. Required power input. The peak power output that the printer can reach — usually when the heated bed and hot ends are heating up. A micron is the measurement used to define the thickness of a 3D printed layer.
Thinner layers are used for high-detail prints, thicker layers are great for fast prototypes. The more accurate the stepper motors within the printer, the greater degree of accuracy and finer resolution can be achieved with each print.
Flip the ergonomic locking lever to easily insert or remove your 3D printing materials. Dual-geared feeder, reinforced for composite materials. The award-winning touchscreen gives you intuitive control over your setup and shows a preview of your print. Swappable print cores. Thanks to swappable print cores, you can quickly switch between different filaments and material-matching print cores. This results in higher uptime and easier maintenance of your 3D printer.
Dual extrusion print head with an auto-nozzle lifting system and swappable print cores. Smaller nozzle diameters enable more detailed prints, large diameters reduce overall print time. This 3D printer ships with two AA 0. The build speed relates to how fast the filament can be extruded through the hot end of the 3D printer. The higher the value the greater the achievable print speed. A wide nozzle temperature range means greater flexibility in the 3D printing material choice.
The nozzle heat-up time relates to how fast you can start printing, as well as how fast it can melt the polymer filament. Composites that combine a polymer with fibers of carbon, metal, glass, or other materials are also widely used for various structural benefits, although these cannot be printed reliably on all FFF 3D printers. Technically it is also possible to print food and biological pastes using 3D printing technology, although this is typically reserved for experimental or research applications.
This is needed when the orientation or shape of a part makes it impossible to print from bottom to top — for example, a part with a large overhang. Support materials are designed to be easy to remove.
Material for FFF 3D printers is typically sold as spools of filament, each containing from g to 1 kg of material. For some, you may be limited to using two or three materials.
Other printers may claim to work with any material, but soon develop technical issues from wearing caused by printing abrasive composite materials. The table above covers the main polymers you can print on a professional 3D printer.
Want to find the right composite material for your 3D printing applications? Watch our webinar on composites for 3D printing. One of the biggest differences can be in material compatibility see the section above , with the hardware being especially important in defining what sort of composites can be printed.
Size is another key differentiator of FFF 3D printers. The printable space which limits the size of a single print or batch is called the build volume or build envelope. This can vary considerably — from 10 cm 3. Note that a stiff, stable build platform aids the FFF process — so large format printers generally mean a trade-off in quality.
The different features of a FFF printer are too many to highlight in an introduction, so here are definitions of a few of the most important:. Build plate or platform.
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Excessive temperature can also cause strange vertical lines in a print. Try lowering the temperature slightly and see if that helps.
Yet another thing to try is to rotate your part 45 degrees on the print bed. Some users have reported that this has gotten rid of vertical lines on the print. The reason overhangs come out uglier than a straight wall is simply because new layers are not properly supported by the preceding layer.
Rather than fully resting and being anchored in place by the previous layer the new layers are partially printed into mid air and tend to sag down slightly or curl up. Sometimes these issues accumulate making each layer worse than the last. Curling around corners when using thin layers seems to be especially problematic. Dealing with overhangs is tricky, there are many variables that will affect how well or badly they will be printed.
Temperature, print speed, amount of overhang, layer height, material, and cooling all play a part in how an overhang will print. Like so many other things cooling plays one of the biggest roles in how well an overhang will print. If the object you’re trying to print is small there’s a chance that, due to the way the nozzle is positioned, the right fan never gets a chance to properly cool the print. A prime example of this is the right ear of the Ultimaker robot.
A way around this is to print more than one object at the same time. By doing this the print head will move between the two objects and allow the layer of one object cool down while the same layer is being printed on the other copy. This also helps greatly when the layer currently being printed is very small. When printing very small details such as the antennas on the Ultimaker robot the print head will stay over the same spot for quite some time and transfer a lot of heat into the print which will deform the layer quite badly.
Another variable is layer height. Depending on your print, sometimes a thicker layer height will be helpful in improving the quality and sometimes a thinner layer is helpful.
Thinner layers seem to create a more pronounced upward curling of the edges and especially around sharp corners. You’ll simply have to experiment and see what works best in your situation. Print speed will also affect your print quality.
Slowing down will usually always result in an improvement. Try to reduce the print temperature as much as possible without causing under extrusion. The slower you print the lower your print temperature can be. In addition to reducing the print temperature it can be worth lowering the print bed temperature, or even turning it off completely.
This is especially important if the overhang is close to the bed. If at all possible try to orient your object to minimize the amount of overhangs. Look at your model and imagine how the print head will have to move and then try to figure out how to rotate or angle it to make this easier.
If you are the creator of the model do your best to avoid overhangs or reduce their severity. If it’s possible to keep an overhang to 45 degrees instead of 30 that’s a good thing as it will be much easier for the printer to handle. You might also consider changing your design to allow for a bridge rather than an overhang.
The top object has an overhang that can be quite hard to get a nice clean surface on. The bottom object has replaced the overhang with a straight « roof » that can instead be bridged which can produce a cleaner result in some cases. Bridging is when the print head will print straight across a gap between two islands into mid air. This actually works better than you might think, especially if the jump is short. There is a limit to how much of an overhang you can print while still preserving the quality you want and this is simply a limitation of the type of printer the Ultimaker is.
Where this line is drawn depends on your own expectations, what plastic you are using, what the geometry of the overhang is, how well it can be cooled and many other factors. If the bottom layer of your print is showing very obvious print lines it’s likely that your bed is simply levelled a little bit too far away from the nozzle.
The closer to the nozzle the bed is on the first layer the harder the plastic will be squished into the bed and the lines will then blend together better. However, you can’t go too closely as that will prevent the plastic from escaping from the nozzle properly. Pressure will build up and eventually the plastic will squirt out and create an ugly blob, or, it could cause the feeder to grind your filament which is something you don’t want. By default cura will print a 0. You may want to try reducing this to 0.
However, when you reduce the initial layer height you must be very precise in your bed levelling. Under extrusion is simply that the printer can not supply the amount of plastic that is asked for. Symptoms of this is missing layers, very thin layers or layers that have random dots and holes in them. This problem is probably the trickiest to find the direct cause for as there are so many variables at play.
The printer will do its best to try and achieve the printing speeds that you are asking for. If this is beyond what the printer is capable of you will run into problems.
If the printer is at the very edge of its capability the amount of plastic being extruded will be reduced but the print keeps going normally. When this happens your printed object might look ok at first glance but if you look closer you will see that walls are not properly fused and there are gaps between fill lines.
If you go beyond this in-the-middle stage the printer tries pushing harder and harder to extrude the material but eventually the pressure will be too high. Ideally when this happens the extruder motor will do what we call a skip back where the axis of the motor spins in the opposite direction for about a quarter turn to relieve pressure. This will not damage the printer, it’s an intended behaviour to prevent the filament from being ground up by the feeder.
If the skip back doesn’t happen your filament will be ground down by the feeder and you will have to remove the filament and cut away the damaged part. Let’s get this out of the way from the start, this is a terrible idea and very counterproductive.
Imagine trying to evacuate a building during a fire, hundreds of people are trying to squeeze through the single exit but only one at a time can exit. If only one person at a time can exit through the door, will it help if you add more people inside the building? This is essentially what increasing flow does in this situation.
Increasing flow has its uses but preventing under extrusion is not one of them. The simplest and probably the most common cause for under extrusion is simply that you are asking the printer to do more than it is capable of.
To figure out how fast you’re trying to print you simply multiply your nozzle diameter with the layer height and speed.
So for example, if you’re printing with 0. This is a speed that a properly functioning Ultimaker2 should be able to handle without any problem. The faster you print the less time the plastic has to heat up to proper printing temperature before being forced out through the nozzle.
Cooler plastic is more viscous and requires higher pressures to push it through the nozzle and eventually the pressures will simply become too high and under extrusion happens. So, can you increase the temperature to work around this issue? Yes, you can, but within reason. Setting a temperature above C for PLA is starting to get into bad territory as the plastic will start to change properties if left in the nozzle for too long and can cause clogs. If you have to raise the temperature this high while still printing at normal speeds there is something else going on.
You will also likely see degrading print quality at these temperatures such as increased stringing and worse overhangs. If you experience under extrusion, find that the filament has been eaten away by the feeder grinding and you don’t have a clogged nozzle you likely need to adjust the tension of the feeder. On top of the feeder, to the right of where the bowden tube enters there’s a small hole with a tension setting screw inside of. On the front and the side of the feeder there are two white dials that indicate the feeder pressure.
Ultimaker2: In March of the spring inside the feeder was changed and the proper setting will therefore differ depending on when you received your printer. For machines from before March of the indicator should be at the middle and for machines after this date the indicator should be at the top. You want to adjust the tension so that the feeder never grinds the filament but rather skips back when the pressure becomes too high.
Try increasing the pressure first moving the indicator further down. When properly adjusted the motor will skip back to protect the filament from grinding so that the feeder can always get a good grip and prevent damage. Towards the end of a roll of filament the coils are usually small and tight. When going through the bowden tube the filament will experience higher friction than if the filament was nice and straight.
If you’re printing at the limit of what the printer can achieve this additional friction can be enough to push it over the edge. This might seem obvious but make sure that your filament can unspool unhindered. Check that the filament isn’t overlapping on the spool for example.
It is not uncommon to have the filament loop under itself when you remove it from the printer for storage and it can be hard to see. Due to the tiny exit hole on the nozzle it doesn’t take much for the exit to become fully or partially blocked.
Blockages can have a wide variety of causes such as unexpected contaminants in the filament with good quality filament this is very unlikely , excessive dust or pet hair on the filament, burnt filament or residue of filament with a higher melting point than what you’re currently using.
If you’ve recently switched from printing with a material that requires fairly high extrusion temperatures such as ABS to a plastic with a lower extrusion temperature like PLA it is important to get rid of all the ABS in your nozzle. Often you can get rid of the old plastic by simply manually extruding the new material at the higher temperature required for the old filament.
When using a higher temperature than you would normally use it is important to not let the plastic sit in the nozzle for too long.
Doing so may cause the plastic to burn and block the nozzle. If there is something physically blocking the nozzle such as dust build-up or something along those lines, a very good method to start with is what’s referred to as the « Atomic » or « cold pull » method. Click here for instructions. Usually performing this operation a few times will take care of the problem. If it does not you can use a very thin wire to poke into the nozzle to help dislodge whatever it is that is causing the blockage.
A popular tool for this is acupuncture needles. These can be bought cheaply on Ebay for example or you can contact us and we can supply them for you. Any sufficiently thin the opening of the nozzle is 0.
After dislodging the blockage perform the Atomic method again to extract it. As a last resort you can remove the nozzle completely and try to burn out any residue in the nozzle with a propane torch.
This is a fairly lengthy procedure on the Ultimaker2 as it requires disassembly of the print head and it is rarely needed. Modern slicer software uses a method called combing to prevent stringing. When the print head needs to move from one part of a print to another and there is a void between the two locations combing causes the head to move inside the perimeter of the part instead of crossing across voids.
This makes it so that any dribbling from the nozzle gets deposited inside the part where it is not seen. A side effect of this can be that the reservoir in the tip empties out ever so slightly and when it starts to print again it takes a moment for the reservoir to fill back up. As the reservoir is filling up little to no plastic is actually extruded.
It should be noted that usually this isn’t an issue for shorter travel moves. It is when the head needs to make a long trip that it can cause issues. If you uncheck the « Combing » checkbox cura will perform a retraction and then move in a straight line when it needs to move the head from one point to another. It is up to you to decide which behaviour you prefer. If combing isn’t causing problems for you then you may prefer leaving it enabled as it saves a little bit of time.
Whether or not combing will cause a long travel move leading to under extrusion issues depends on the geometry of the model you’re trying to print. There isn’t a definitive correct choice here. Before reaching the hot zone of the nozzle the filament will pass through a white insulator piece.
If the print head has seen excessive temperature in combination with a very tightly assembled print head it could happen that the exit of this insulating piece gets slightly deformed. If the exit diameter has deformed it could cause unnecessary friction making it more difficult for the feeder to extrude properly. To find out if this is the case you have to disassemble the print head.
Once taken apart you can have a close look at the insulator paying particular attention to the exit hole. Try feeding a straightened piece of filament through it, there should be no resistance. If a lip has formed at the exit causing friction you can try to very carefully use a drill bit to remove this lip. However it is important that you remove only the lip and nothing more. The insulator must form a very tight seal against the hotend so that no plastic can leak out. If you are not comfortable performing this operation or feel you need a replacement part please get in contact with your reseller or Ultimaker.
A small tool will be made available for this eventually. High quality filaments have very high tolerances and are produced with a diameter around 2. This can be misleading as they are usually sold as « 3mm ». This is not because they are trying to trick you but to make sure the filament works properly in the printer. If you buy cheap filament make sure that the diameter does not exceed 3mm. Also note that some filaments may be slightly oval so measure twice, rotate your callipers 90 degrees for the second measurement.
If your filament exceeds 3mm there is a good chance that it will jam in the printer as it will simply be too thick to pass through the print head. And even if it does pass through it may cause excessive friction which in turn leads to under extrusion. Really your best option is to not use it to avoid head aches. On an Ultimaker Original this is a setting in cura or any other slicer you are using , for the Ultimaker2 this is set on the machine itself.
Why is it important you ask? If your settings say your filament is 2. This will not create a dramatic difference but it can for example be seen as tiny spaces between the lines in a top surface.
It can be the difference between a water tight print and a print that leaks. The material is fed into the print head by a small knurled wheel in the feeder at the back of the printer.
The knurled wheel is a sort of sleeve that is attached to the motor shaft of the feeder motor. To make sure it isn’t you can put a small mark on the shaft and a matching one on the sleeve. After printing something, inspect the marks and make sure they haven’t moved in relation to each other. If they have you will have to tighten the small set screw that holds the wheel in place.
On newer Ultimaker2 printers this is less likely to happen as the shaft is no longer round. A small cutout helps keep the wheel in place. But it’s still something to check, just in case. If you level the nozzle too close to the bed you will essentially block the plastic from coming out. With the older feeder design this would cause the feeder to skip and thus save the filament. With the new, stronger feeder there’s a chance that it will just keep pushing and start to grind down the filament.
First of all you have to determine if the walls are not touching at all or if they are touching in some parts only. Using a cylinder as an example it is common that there will be two « sides » touching and two that do not. This is very likely caused by the short belts not being tight enough. Please see this section which deals with this issue. Notice how some parts of the infill lines are touching the perimeter lines while others do not.
You will usually find that if you imagine drawing a big X over the print you will notice that the bottom left and top right patterns match and similarly the top left and bottom right match.
If the walls are not touching each other at all it is an extrusion issue. However, if your printer is under extruding slightly the lines will be marginally thinner and they no longer fuse together properly. The solution could be as simple as reducing your print speed slightly or increasing your temperature a few degrees.
Under extrusion is an issue with many causes and you can read more about it here. There is however something else that might be happening and it is a slicer issue that relates to wall thickness and the size of your nozzle. We call it the « thin wall problem ». The standard nozzle on an Ultimaker is 0. Now, say that you have a wall that is 1mm thick, how will cura handle this? It creates two perimeter walls that are 0. This leaves a 0. It should be said that cura is pretty good at dealing with this and will try some tricks to get around this issue but when it fails this void between walls is what you will end up with.
To get around this particular problem you should always try to design thin walls to be multiples of your nozzle size. If that’s not possible you can cheat a bit by changing your nozzle size setting in cura to something slightly smaller and try again.
This will cause cura to slightly under extrude to create a thinner line. You can also increase the size to do the opposite. However, it’s very important that you then watch your print speeds as the volume you’re trying to extrude will go up drastically.
It is important that you match your wall thickness settings to match your new nozzle setting, you want your wall thickness to be a multiple of your nozzle diameter. If you set your nozzle diameter to 0. It is also worth experimenting with the wall thickness setting and infill percentage. If you’re not getting the result you want with 0. Sometimes having a thinner outer wall helps fill in these thin walls and vice versa. You don’t have to print it out to check, instead use the built in layer view in cura to check your changes.
The layer view is found by clicking the big button in the top right of the window. This image shows a classic case of the thin wall problem. Excessive bed heat is the culprit in this case. As the plastic is extruded it behaves similarly to a rubber band.
Normally this effect is held back by the previous layers in a print. As a fresh line of plastic is laid down it bonds to the previous layer and is held in place until it fully cools down below the glass transition temperature where the plastic becomes solid.
With a very hot bed the plastic is held above this temperature and is still malleable. As new layers of plastic is put down on top of this semi solid mass of plastic the shrinking forces causes the object to shrink. This continues until the print reaches a height where the heat from the bed no longer keeps the object above this temperature and each layer becomes solid before the next layer is put down thus keeping everything in place.
For PLA you will want to keep your bed temperature at around C which is a nice temperature to keep bed adhesion while not being too hot. By default the bed temperature is set to 75C which is definitely too much for PLA. There is an exception to this however. If you’re printing objects with a very large foot print taking up most of the bed it might be necessary to use a higher bed temperature to make sure the corners do not lift.
In addition to lowering your bed temperature you want your fans to come on early to help cool down the layers as fast as possible. In the window that opens you will find a section dedicated to cooling. Try setting Fan full on at height to 1mm so that the fans come on nice and early. If you are printing a very small part these steps might not be enough. The layers might simply not have enough time to cool properly before the next layer is put down. To help with this you can print two copies of your object at once so that the print head will alternate between the two copies giving each more time to cool.
Grinding happens when the motor tries to push the filament through the nozzle but for whatever reason it starts to slip on the filament and instead grinds the plastic down. The more it grinds the filament the less grip it is able to get and very soon it will not be able to move the filament neither in nor out.
This is more common on the Ultimaker Original but it can also happen on the Ultimaker2. To help prevent this problem on the UM2 the feeder motor current is deliberately limited so that the motor will skip back before starting to grind the filament down.
What prevents the feeder from moving the material forward properly can differ and what follows is a few things you will want to check. The amount of pressure that the feeder puts on your filament is adjustable via a small hidden screw accessed at the top of the feeder. To the right of where the bowden tube enters the feeder there is a small hole into which you can insert a hex driver to adjust the tension.
The current setting can be seen on the little white dial right below this hole. When the dial is in the upper position the pressure is low and vice versa.
An unfortunate bug in the firmware of the UM2 can cause grinding to happen at the start of a print due to excessive priming speed. Please make sure that you use the firmware that shipped with cura You can download the latest version of cura here: Software download.
The print head of the UM2 has three fans, the two print cooling fans on the left and right side and what we call the third fan that is located at the back of the head.
Depending on how old your printer is the fan should turn on as soon as the printer is powered on or as soon as the print head reaches a temperature of more than 40C. The function of this fan is to cool the zone of the print head where the plastic goes from liquid to solid, it is important that there is a sharp distinction between these two zones and that heat doesn’t travel upwards in the system.
If the third fan is not running heat will travel up in the system and soften the filament much higher up than intended.
The softened filament will then expand and cause a clog that will make it impossible to print until it is removed. If you find that the fan is not running you should check that the fan is properly connected. The connector is hidden under the black wire mesh guard and you will need to move it out of the way.
It may be that the mesh has heat shrink tubing that need to be removed before you are able to move the mesh out of the way. Use a small scissor or pliers and carefully cut the tubing away being careful not to cut any cables. The heat shrink tubing is cosmetic and removing it will not impact performance in any way. Trace the wire from the fan to it’s connector. The fan should connect to an orange and blue wire.
Tug gently on the connection to make sure it is solidly connected and check that it hasn’t somehow been connected in reverse.
This image shows a proper connection. Notice how the little « hooks » secure the two connectors together. Also take note of the colour order of the wires. There have been a couple of cases in other words, rare that the wires have been assembled in the wrong order. In this case one of the internal metallic connectors have slipped out of the housing.
This may cause intermittent behaviour in which the fan turns on only when the print head is in certain positions. It is important that you fix this and you will start by first disconnecting the fan and then gently pulling the loose wire out completely. Inspect the connector and see that the little retaining barb on the top is bent outward. Then re-insert the wire into the housing all the way until you hear a faint click as the little barb snaps into place.
It can be difficult to hear this so take a look and check that the wire is indeed fully inserted. Give the wires a little tug to check that they are held securely in place. Finally re-connect the fan. It is possible that plastic is clogging up the knurled surface that is supposed to grip into the filament.
Usually blowing sharply at the surface will get rid of the debris but using a small brush, like a toothbrush, is helpful to make sure the surface is nice and clean. It is especially important to clean the sleeve after you have had a grind as it is then very likely it will be full of plastic shavings. This one is a bit more obscure but we’ve seen a couple of cases where the shaft of the feeder motor gets so hot that it heats up the filament to the point where it gets slightly soft.
Due to the extra heat the filament will start to deform and flatten out which in turn leads to extrusion problems. Prints with a lot of retractions are of course affected more than a print where the filament is steadily feeding into the printer. This seems to be more of a problem when the printer is located in a place with already very high ambient temperatures.
If you suspect this is happening on your printer you can try the following to see if it helps. Remove the white metal cover that hides the stepper motor and then direct a fan at the stepper to cool it down.
You could also possibly try to cool the area down from behind the printer but it’s harder since there is so little of the shaft exposed. The firmware has detected that the temperature sensor of the bed is reporting incorrect values.
Without proper feedback from the sensor the firmware can’t control the bed heat so to protect the printer and for safety reasons the firmware will prevent you from using the printer until this problem is fixed.
Important warranty note: before you perform any of these steps you must contact the Ultimaker support team first. The easiest thing to check is the connector on the heated bed so let’s start there. Follow the cables that connect to the bed. There will be four wires two thick ones and two thinner ones. The sensor wires are the thinner ones. Try tugging gently on these wires and make sure that they are securely fastened. If they are not properly secured you will need to remove the heated bed so that you can access the connector and re-seat the wires properly.
If any of the wires are loose you will need to remove the heated bed so that you can reach the connector. Start by removing the strain relief that hold the wires to the bed. The bed is held in place by three screws that connect to the three thumbscrews on the underside of the build plate.
Unscrew all three screws completely and lift the bed off. Be ready to catch the thumbscrews as they are not held in place. You will now have full access to the bed connector and it should be straight forward to re-insert the wires and tighten them into place. While you have access you should also inspect the solder joints that hold the connector to the heated bed. Check for cracks or other damage. If you find a bad connection you will need to re-flow the solder joints.
If you are not comfortable doing this yourself then maybe you know someone who has experience with a soldering iron. If not, get in contact with us and we’ll make sure to get it fixed for you. Now check that the sensor is properly plugged into the PCB at the bottom of your printer. To access the PCB you will need to remove the protective metal cover. There are two metal covers, the one you want to remove is the bigger one.
The cover is held in place by a couple of screws that you unscrew from inside the print area of the printer. Start by lifting the bed out of the way by grabbing the bed with both hands as close to the back of the printer as possible and lifting it straight up.
Lay the machine on its side and remove the two screws and finally remove the cover, it might take a bit of wiggling back and forth to dislodge the cover. The sensor cable is white and brown and should be connected to « Temp3 » on the PCB:. Check that the white and brown cable is inserted into « Temp3 ». As the print head is completing a top layer travel moves can cause ugly lines to appear.
This can be caused by a couple of things. Either the head is making an actual scratch on the surface or you are seeing slight oozing of plastic during the travel move. This feature will make the printer lift the nozzle a tiny amount just before making a travel move and then move back down once it arrives at the destination.
In combination with this you can increase the speed at which the printer executes travel moves. The faster move will reduce the amount of time the nozzle can ooze out plastic.
Also consider lowering your temperature to further reduce oozing. To reduce oozing even more you can set the Minimum travel distance to 1 and set Minimum extrusion to 0. This will force cura to always retract before performing a travel move. This may add a bit of printing time as a retraction doesn’t happen instantly. A side effect of the z-hop feature is that it can leave behind a tiny little blob. However, a small blob is far less visible and easier to remove than a scratch. This effect is more prone to happen on surfaces which are broken up by holes since the head needs to move around more.
By adding a thin solid layer on top of the object he was able to reduce the travel moves significantly. The thin layer of plastic was then cut to reveal the holes again. A little bit more information and another option to reduce this effect can be found here: Getting better prints guide. This can happen if a set screw on one of the pulleys has come loose and it’s easy to fix. The image at the top of the page shows a fairly extreme case, sometimes it only sticks out a mm or two and can be hard to spot.
Usually a small deviation like that will not affect performance or quality but you might experience a strange knocking sound that is hard to locate. If the rod isn’t held tightly in place it will move back and forth with the print head and will make a knocking sound as the spacer is banging up against the side of the machine. Start by loosening the set screw on the offending pulley fully to make it easier to move.
Next push the metal rod back into the correct position. In the image the arrow is pointing to a black spacer, push the loosened pulley towards this spacer until it is pushing up tightly against the bearing. Finally re-tighten the set screw very tightly so that it cannot slip again. The example image shows a part where the opening at the top has a single fill layer covering it. You might also find that voids inside your model are either completely filled or randomly filled by infill layers.
This happens due to errors in the model file that confuses the slicer. You can often spot these errors by viewing the model in « X-Ray » mode which you can activate by clicking the large button in the top right of the model window in cura.
Any areas showing up as red are problem areas that will potentially cause issues. This model shows a whole heap of errors. You do not want any red areas at all when viewing your model in X-Ray mode.
Switch to « Layers » mode with the same button as before and inspect the trouble areas as you try different combinations. It should be noted that enabling these options for a model that isn’t faulty can actually make the model slice incorrectly see the image below. A better option might be to repair the model so that the problem doesn’t present in the first place. Netfabb offers a free cloud based service that will attempt to heal models for you.
Since it’s free it’s well worth giving it a shot. You can find the service here. This image clearly shows how the sliced file does not represent what you would expect.
Where the holes should be there is now infill. What’s interesting is that the file is actually perfectly fine but by accident the « Combine everything Type-B » checkbox under « Fix horrible » was checked. With that option unchecked the file sliced without issues. By far the most common issue here is simply that you haven’t properly levelled your print bed.
It is very important that the bed is perfectly level in relation to the movement of the print head and that the starting distance from the nozzle is as close to perfect as possible. If the first layer starts just slightly too high the plastic will not be squished into the print bed properly and will therefore not stick and stay in place.
You might also find that the parts are detaching before the print is completed. When you first started your machine you were guided through a bed levelling wizard, you can re-start this at any time. Internally the firmware expects the bed to be 0. It just so happens that a sheet of standard 80gr printer paper is usually of this thickness and can be used as a crude feeler gauge. As you get more confident you might find that it’s easier to simply look along the glass and visually set the correct height.
You want the nozzle to be very close to touching its own reflection without actually touching. You might have to re-do this procedure a couple of times to get it right, it’ll get easier with time and luckily the Ultimaker2 build platform is very stable and rarely needs to be re-calibrated. You can also adjust the levelling on the fly as the printer is laying down the first layer.
Simply use the thumbscrews underneath the platform. You’ll find an image showing an example of a good first layer in the warping section. It is also very important that your print bed is clean glue is an exception of course and free from oils from your fingers.
If you’ve touched your print bed a lot the oils from your fingers can prevent or make it harder for the plastic to stick properly. To promote stickiness your machine was delivered with a stick of glue. Using glue is optional but tends to help quite a bit. Don’t go crazy with the glue though, more is not better. Clean your glass plate and then spread a bit of the glue onto it. With a damp piece of paper or cloth spread the glue out over the bed and let it dry starting a print that uses the heated bed will make it dry quickly.
After the water evaporates you will be left with a very thin layer of glue. If you’re printing on a cold bed with blue painters tape, like on the Ultimaker Original, it is very helpful to wipe the tape down with some alcohol. The tape is covered with a waxy substance that can make it harder for the parts to stick.
This isn’t always needed but it’s something to keep in mind. This is a tricky problem without a clear solution at the moment. This problem should not be confused with stringing which is a different issue. Ultimaker S5 Expand your 3D printing ambitions. Get pricing. Composite-ready dual extrusion. Compatible with over materials.
Dimensions Printer properties Operation parameters Ecosystem Safety and compliance Service and support. The physical space inside the Ultimaker S5 that can be used for single or dual extrusion 3D printing.
This is the process of depositing layers of filament, one on top of the other, to build up shapes and models. It is a form of additive manufacturing technology and the process used by all Ultimaker 3D printers.
Fused filament fabrication FFF. The filament diameter that achieves optimal results on Ultimaker 3D printers. The net weight of the 3D printer.
The peak power output that the printer can reach — usually when the heated bed and hot ends are heating up. A micron is the measurement used to define the thickness of a 3D printed layer.
Thinner layers are used for high-detail prints, thicker layers are great for fast prototypes. The more accurate the stepper motors within the printer, the greater degree of accuracy and finer resolution can be achieved with each print. Flip the ergonomic locking lever to easily insert or remove your 3D printing materials. Dual-geared feeder, reinforced for composite materials. The award-winning touchscreen gives you intuitive control over your setup and shows a preview of your print.
Faster print core changes mean higher uptime and easier maintenance. A print core for abrasive composite materials CC is available separately. Swappable print cores. Thanks to swappable print cores, you can quickly switch between different filaments and material-matching print cores.
This results in higher uptime and easier maintenance of your 3D printer. Dual extrusion print head with an auto-nozzle lifting system and swappable print cores. Smaller nozzle diameters enable more detailed prints, large diameters reduce overall print time. This 3D printer ships with two AA 0.
The build speed relates to how fast the filament can be extruded through the hot end of the 3D printer. The higher the value the greater the achievable print speed. A wide nozzle temperature range means greater flexibility in the 3D printing material choice.
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Easily 3D print larger parts with world-leading material compatibility, an award-winning touch interface, and filament run-out detection. Now you can turn the Ultimaker Feedr into a metal-printing workhorse. The Ultimaker Metal Expansion Kit unlocks a simple workflow that makes exploring a new range of stainless steel applications easier, more efficient, and more affordable. Ultimaker Essentials gives you the tools you need to start 3D printing at work, while meeting IT requirements. Features include remote printer management, firmware firewalls, verified plugins, and direct support.
Market-leading technical support via email, phone, or from our global community is feeder ultimaker 3 free to you in your language and timezone. Online resources, extensive manuals, material technical and safety data sheets in multiple languagesa detailed knowledge base, and much more. Ultimaker Ultimaker S5: Reliability at scale.
Ultimaker S5 Expand your 3D printing по этому адресу. Get pricing. Composite-ready dual extrusion. Compatible with over materials. Dimensions Printer properties Operation parameters Ecosystem Safety and compliance Service and support. The physical space inside the Ultimaker Frer that can be used for single or dual extrusion 3D printing.
This is the process of depositing layers feeder ultimaker 3 free filament, feeser on top of the other, to build up shapes and models. It is a form of additive manufacturing technology and the process used by all Ultimaker 3D printers. Fused filament fabrication FFF. The filament diameter that achieves optimal results on Ultimaker 3D printers.
Ultimajer net weight of the 3D printer. The peak power output that the printer can reach — usually when the heated bed and читать полностью ends are heating feedeer. A micron is feeder ultimaker 3 free measurement used to define the thickness of a 3D printed layer.
Thinner layers are used for high-detail prints, thicker layers are great for fast prototypes. The more accurate the stepper motors within the printer, the greater degree of accuracy and finer resolution can be achieved with each print. Flip the ffeder locking fres to easily insert or remove your 3D printing materials.
Dual-geared feeder, reinforced for composite materials. The award-winning touchscreen gives you intuitive control feeder ultimaker 3 free your setup and shows a preview of your print. Faster print core changes mean higher fre and easier maintenance. A utlimaker core for abrasive composite materials CC is available separately.
Swappable print cores. Thanks to swappable print cores, you can quickly switch between different filaments and material-matching print cores. This results in higher uptime and easier maintenance of your 3D ultima,er. Feeder ultimaker 3 free extrusion print head with an auto-nozzle feeder ultimaker 3 free system and swappable print cores.
Smaller nozzle diameters enable more detailed prints, large diameters reduce overall print time. Aac codec download windows free 3D printer ships with two AA 0. The build speed relates to how fast the filament can be extruded through the hot end fref the 3D printer. The higher the value the greater the achievable print speed. A wide nozzle temperature range means greater flexibility in the feeder ultimaker 3 free printing material choice.
The nozzle heat-up time relates to how fast you can start printing, feeder ultimaker 3 free well as how fast it /7492.txt melt the feeder ultimaker 3 free filament.
Thanks to their quiet operation, Ultimaker 3D printers are suitable for use in the office, studio, or classroom environment. The Ultimaker S5 ensures more accurate build plate calibration and better adhesion. Advanced active leveling. The build ultimkaer heat-up time relates to how fast it can reach the print-ready temperature.
This Ultimaker 3D printer operates best in locations between these temperatures. This Ultimaker 3D printer can be safely stored or left inactive at these temperatures. Ultimaker Cura is our industry-leading slicing feeder ultimaker 3 free that turns your 3D model into a file your printer can use.
Use Ultimaker Digital Factory to manage printers and print jobs via your local network or the cloud. Ultimaker Cura — print preparation software Ultimaker Digital Factory — printer management software. MacOS, Windows, and Linux. More plugins are available lutimaker Ultimaker Marketplace to make your 3D printing experience even feeder ultimaker 3 free.
An STL file is the efeder used file type for 3D printing. Nearly any 3D modeling software program is able to create these files. Print with one click via Wi-Fi or Ethernet connection. Or export your print job to a USB stick. Training is available online or via our dedicated network of local service partners. The benefits of these are improved ergonomics, productivity, and operator satisfaction. Feederr the end, we get very good feedback from the operators working on the line.
On delivery time we’ve seen the same decrease. That’s important for us, for a stable production process.